Canada Road Trip: Upsala ON to Winnipeg MB
Day 5, 375 miles
Waking up at the lovely camping spot was so nice that I farted around for 2 hours before getting back on the road. A little yoga, some coffee, breakfast, some organizing. It was a warm morning and there were NO BUGS.
My first stop was in Upsala for gas. The only gas in town was an old fashioned double pump place, I didn’t see the sign that said full-serve until I started pumping. The attendant came out and apologized for getting a little busy, so she wasn't there to get the gas going. I’d forgotten that full service was a thing, honestly. She told me to let her know the total on the pump when I came inside to pay. Gosh, it seems like forever ago now that all pumps were like this, honor system. At every gas station I ask if they have paper maps, this is the first that did so I grabbed both Ontario and Manitoba, if there had been other provinces I’d have grabbed those too, I love the folding and refolding of a giant map. It’s awkward and nostalgic. I had my orange flourescent highlighter ready.
Old fashioned honor system gas pump. (also for sale: minnows, leeches and worms) :)
Next stop was at a little scenic pullover in Ignace, ON. The view was ok, but I met an older gentleman there who was walking his dog. He lived in Ignace. Noticing my license plate, he said I was the first person he’d ever met from New Hampshire, it was the usual ‘where ya headed’ stuff, I told him all the way west to the island, he said, “I went to BC a few years bag to visit my daughter, NEVER AGAIN, I couldn’t handle the traffic. It was bumper to bumper everywhere, no thank you”. I asked what it’s like living in Ignace and he replied simply, “Good, I’m getting ready to go fishing all summer. I know, rough life.” He also mentioned that he was going to retire in Arizona but then we (as in the US) went ahead and re-elected a lunatic. “There’s too many guns down there, don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against guns, I own several, I’m just just not ok with people carrying them around all the time.” Same, friend…. When I told him I’d taken the northerly trans canada route he said with a laugh, “Ohhhh, you took the boring way!” Ha. I mentioned that I had given up on the dream of going to Pickle Lake, ON (most northerly maintained road in ON), he replied, “yeah, you’ve probably seen enough trees”. That sealed the deal, I love trees, but no Pickle Lake for me. He had one last piece of advice before I left, “I like to drive 105 on the road (speed limit is 90kph), that way I’m not always passing people and nobody is tailgating me, it’s a good cruising speed”.
View over Ignace. It’s getting hazy in the distance. I’ll later realize that there’s wildfires happening up ahead.
I forgot to mention a t-shirt I saw near Red Rock, ON while at a gas station, there were a couple of guys in a giant truck of some kind, a little jacked up, a little extra. One of them had a tee that said: “ If you don’t want a country BOY, get your self a different MAN”. Weirdly, I’m still thinking about it. Like was he implying that he was a boy and will never be a man? Or that he was a man and if I was with a boy maybe he’s the guy for me? Was it meant for his wife/partner? A threat? I just don’t get it I guess.
Another thing I’m thinking about… it’s a quote from the book I’m reading called “Blue Highways” by William Least Heat Moon. It’s about a road trip in the 80’s on small back roads through off-the-beaten path places in the US. Really great book, btw. You should read it. On taking a solo trip: “The distance will never be gapped between the going and the not going’. Meaning, as much as I share stories from out here, with you all, you will never quite experience what I’m experiencing, it’s mine alone in its entirety. I think everyone should do something like this at least once, in whatever way that you are able. It’s like a gift to myself. I hope my kids do it.
I stopped in Dryden at the ‘you know where’ and got a cup of coffee and used the wifi to write yesterdays blog post. Soon after opening my laptop a fellow in biker gear sat down on the couch next to me. “Are you a writer?” I faltered a little at that question, uhhhhh, I hadn’t really thought about it. I told him I was more of a ‘documenter’. His name was Dave, an ex school teacher, we got into an easy conversation about the places I’ve been and where I’m headed, he was a wealth of information. He had just picked up a new to him motorcycle in Thunder Bay and was heading to Winnipeg, deciding whether he was going to choose the longer curvier road on his bike or the straight shot faster way. He said he wished more Canadians would do what I was doing, get out and go places so they could discover how great and varied Canada is for themselves. He gave me a few tips for a things to see and places to go, he was right about the town of Vermillion being a ‘treat’ because of the geology there, the exposed granite and granite quarry’s showing off the bright pinks, whites and shades in-between at the roadside cut-aways and lake edges. So pretty. I tried to snap a pic of the road side striping and failed.
The roadsides became pink and white. So pretty.
Eventuallly, our conversation turned to politics, don’t they all these days? He was particularly disheartened about the American’s apathy, from his vantage point he could clearly see the damage being to done to the globe and to us, but our elected officials weren’t doing enough to fight the authoritarian rise. It’s the anti-education stance that killed him (and me), we are no longer listening to scientists, employing knowledgable/educated people to our top government positions. The conversation ended with a sigh, we both agreed that the undoing of the damage will take much much longer than the doing of it. He’s trying very hard not to lump every american into the same pile, it’s hard though and I get it.
A few observations:
The area around Dryden begins to look like Upstate New York, rolling green hills, open fields, each farm with their own fire pond.
Further along by Kenora and Vermillion is was very Maine-like, the exposed granite sloping down into the many lakes in the area, the conifers, the almost blooming lilacs.
The weather was ridiculously hot, 91º F so I stopped at a pullout and swam at Dogtooth Lake outside of Kenora ON
Dogtooth Lake, looking very Maine coast-like to me.
Soon the skies grew hazy and smokey, I later learned that there was a wildfire just north of Kenora and a big one that happened in Lac du Bonnet, 100km NE of Winnipeg, as well as a few in Minnesota that were blowing smoke in the direction I was traveling, it was about an hour of driving with my AC on recirculation to keep the smoke out. I passed a few people on motorcycles, gah, that looked rough! No pics of the smoke, sorry.
I listened to the local radio and checked it out online and felt I wasn’t in danger heading into Winnipeg where I had a hotel reservation for the night.
Winnipeg is at the start of the prairies, loooong and flat, the city rises out of the distance slowly. So far, the city is cleaned and well cared for with some lovely buildings, I’m just not a city person. The trees are blooming here. I’ll hit up the Canadian Human Rights Museum today before leaving the city.
What a great mural.
Fort Garry Hotel in Winnipeg, my friend Jeremy reminded me that there’s a story here.
For Garry Hotel was built in 1911 by the Grand Trunk Pacific Railways, in order to serve luxury accommodation for upper class travelers, it’s just one block from the huge Union Station building. Lot’s of famous people have stayed here, my mother would be particularly pleased that Liberace is on that list. It’s been renovated several times, it was a casino for a decade as well. Some say that it’s haunted by a female spirit, specifically room 202, (where she died by suicide after receiving the news that her husband was killed in a car accident).
Gold star for you if you read my ramblings! See you tomorrow, Deb